This venerable fifth-generation domaine has holdings in the top vineyards of both Volnay and Pommard. Joseph Voillot's son-in-law, Jean Pierre Charlot, is now the managing director; he worked closely with Joseph from 1980 until Joseph’s retirement in 1995.
For many years, Jean Pierre was a professor at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune, where he taught several of Burgundy’s rising stars. He’s a meticulous man, and what interests him is handling the challenging years when the vineyard work, triage at harvest, and careful cellar practices really pay off. It’s immediately evident when tasting through the domaine’s range that these are true “vins de terroir” (thus the judicious use of new oak), and each wine at every level reflects its origin. Anyone who wants to grasp the essence of Volnay and Pommard needs to look no further than Domaine Joseph Voillot.
The 2021 Domaine Joseph Voillot Volnay Les Champans Premier Cru is from the domain’s largest premier cru holding, 4.2 acres whose vines date from 1934, 1971, and 1985. Champans is down-slope in the premier cru band, and its wine typically has more fruit and power than other Voillot Volnays.
Review:
‘The 2021 Volnay Les Champans Ter Cru has much more brightness and delineation than the Fremiets this year, with red cherries, wild strawberries and ust a touch of iodine and sous-bois. This is nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine structure, pliant tannins and a harmonious finish. Not the most complex Champans encountered from this address, yet it has class.
-Vinous 91-93 Points
The 2021 les Champans is also a simply stunning example of this fine premier cru vineyard. The beautifully elegant nose wafts from the glass in a blend of red and black plums, cherries, spit-roasted quail, a complex base of soil, woodsmoke, coffee bean and a deft touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off superb depth at the core, great soil signature, ripe, fine-grained tannins and a long, nascently complex and very promising finish. This is a touch more reserved on the palate than the Fremiets and will take a bit longer to blossom, but it is going to be stellar. 2034-2085.
93+ pts- John Gilman, View from the Cellar #102
The Domaine Joseph Voillot Volnay Les Fremiets Premier Cru is from a parcel that is up-slope, and the wine is very calcaire, or limestony; you literally taste the stone in this elegant, intensely perfumed wine. Pair with veal filet mignon, squab, beef steak and roast duckling.
Review:
I really like this terroir and the 2021 is an absolutely classic example of this fine premier cru, offering up a refined and pure bouquet of black plums, dark berries, coffee bean, a complex base of dark soil tones, a nice touch of new oak and plenty of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very elegant in profile, with a superb core, lovely soil signature, ripe, suave tannins and a long, vibrant and complex finish. Fine, fine juice. 2033-2080.
93 pts- John Gilman, View from the Cellar #102
Tim Atkin 93 Points
Paradigm Cabernet Sauvignon is made from 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc
20 months in French oak (only about a third of that is new oak) and for 20 more months in bottle before release
Our winemaking "style" is solely determined by this place or terrior we call "Paradigm." Winemaking is agriculture when you own your vineyards and are able to farm them to promote the very best Earth will give you. All of our selections of wines are made from five varietals on the estate. Every wine is 100% farmed and grown by us.
Complexity in our wines supported by luscious fruit and acidity is our hallmark. Our efforts during harvest and barrel cellaring concentrate on maintaining the freshness from the first day we handpicked each vineyard block. Simple winemaking protocols are employed while crucial “timing” oriented winemaking decisions rule each day.
DuMOL 'Chloe' Chardonnay is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.
Our first vintage of Chloe was 2000, and although the vineyard mix has changed over the years, the wine has always focused on the central Russian River Valley district to represent the richest side of DuMOL Chardonnay. The wine has lower acidity than our coastal wines, making it more approachable in its youth, and the flavors focus more on orchard fruits than citrus. The neighboring El Diablo and Flora Marie vineyards sit overlooking the river on gravelly loam soils and provide the wine's deep fruit generosity. These are the first vineyards we harvest each year as the lean soils really advance their crop’s ripening. We offset this fruit richness with grapes from our Green Valley Bressay Estate, which overflow with tense structure and coastal acidity. It’s a seamless combination that produces a thrilling result, and Chloe is the first of our designate Chardonnays you should open each vintage.
The wine’s aromas and flavors are akin to peach, apricot, oatmeal and anise. Fresh thyme and honey notes combine with tangerine and lemon curd. It’s a deeply textural and expansive wine that gently glides along the palate. Lively acidity and spicy notes of ginger and white pepper provide lift and energy to the finish. A beautiful, layered, and richer style to enjoy soon after release. Drink between late-2024 and 2029 and serve no cooler than 55º F.
Review:
A Central Russian River Blend, the 2022 Chardonnay Chloe is a bright yellow hue and captures a wide spectrum of citrus with notes of orange, Meyer lemon, fresh pineapple, toasted spice, and a hint of almond through the mid-palate as well as a nice lift of citrus on the finish. It’s a beautiful wine offering a richer tone through the range. Drink 2024-2034.
-Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points