The history of Coppo winery is inextricably wound with the wine history of Piedmont. It is closely linked to the development of the city of Canelli, known as the capital of Italian sparkling wine and one of Italy’s most important viticultural centers today.
Coppo’s history is one of tradition and courageous vision for the future, of sacrifice and innovation. It is a story of the unconditional love that Coppo has for their vines’ origins, for varieties that have always been cultivated in Piedmont, and for old family traditions.
The origins of the winery date back to 1892. For over 120 years, the family has remained the sole owner. Since the very beginning, the Coppo family has managed estate vineyards and bottled their own wine under the name of Coppo, making it one of the oldest family-run wineries in all of Italy.
In fact, in 2012, Unioncamere added the winery to the national register of historical businesses, highlighting its uninterrupted activity for over a century in the commodity market.
Piero Coppo was the head of the family and founder of the core that became today’s modern winery. He was known for his finely-tuned palate and infallible nose. Above all, he was known for his strong sense of ethics with which he managed all his activities. He strived for perfection down to the last detail, personally checking on all phases of work, from the vineyards to pressing, and from the winemaking to bottling and aging in a near-obsessive search for absolute quality without compromise.
At the time, Canelli was an important market for Piedmontese grapes, and a fundamental juncture for vine growers and winemakers. It was in this city in the 1800s that Coppo made the first Italian spumante with secondary bottle fermentation. This method is the same used to make Champagne; thus, the wine was called Moscato Champagne. Coppo’s intuitive move was destined to change Italian wine history and cast the city of Canelli in a role of noteable importance as it proved itself worthy of developing an international wine industry at the forefront of change.
In Canelli in 1913, Piero married Clelia Pennone, the heir to the Pio Pennone winery, a “leading and renown” producer and exporter of wines that had already been active for two generations. Thus the Pennone winery was added to Coppo in the center of Canelli between Via Giuliani and Via Alba, and today comprises the central seat of the winery.
In this very winery at the end of the 18th century, the galleries and corridors known today as the Underground Cathedrals were excavated from the tuff stone under the earth. Because of their historical value and unique, architectural beauty, these underground cellars have been recognized as a Unesco World Heritage site.
Passing through the underground cellars, one may walk underneath the entire length of the hill, finally reaching the point where the spumanti rest on their lees. Here, at the end of the long lines of bottles, pass through an ancient wood and cast iron door to emerge directly on the other side in the garden of the magnificent art nouvea villa that Piero bought the same year he was married.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the winery’s production ranged from sparkling wines to classic Piedmontese reds, among which Barbera stood out. Coppo also produces Vermouth, an aromatized wine (often Moscato di Canelli) that became fashionable in the 19th and 20th centuries. Vermouth is one of the world’s most popular cocktail ingredients, and it definitively contributed to the wealth and fortune of Canelli.
Wine production in the first decades of the 20th century was profuse and frenzied. Wine and sparkling wine sold fast in Italy and around the world, leaving the wineries on carts pulled by oxen and encased in 200-liter, oval Bordeaux barrels. Wine was exported mostly in South America and to the United States, where it was sold in bulk and in demijohns.
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It is hard to imagine with the Lithology range receiving 298 points out of 300 for the three single-vineyard wines, that there could possibly be a wine above them. But there is, and it is our Estate wine. Blended several times very intently by masters of their craft Philippe Melka and Michel Rolland, this is the ultimate expression of our house’s work. Positive, full-bodied, and quite powerful, there’s the expected crème de cassis and blackberry from St. Helena Cabernets, with mineral, herb, subtle tobacco and vanilla, plum skins, and pie crust, purple flowers, forest-conifer notes, and very fine tannic structure. It is a magnificent, and magnificently elegant expression of this house, and when asked recently, Monsieur Rolland stated plainly to me, “oh yes indeed – this is the best one, the best yet…”
Review:
Pure perfection in Cabernet, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Alejandro Bulgheroni is all varietal and comes two-thirds from Oakville with the balance from sites in St. Helena and Rutherford. Aged 20 months in 70% new French oak and put together by Philippe Melka and Michel Rolland, it has an incredibly pure, full-bodied, massive yet weightless style that I suspect couldn’t be achieved anywhere outside of Napa Valley. Cassis, blackberries, leafy herbs, lead pencil shavings, and tobacco leaf are just some of the nuances here, and it’s full-bodied, deep, and concentrated on the palate while maintaining an ethereal, seamless, utterly perfect balance between its fruit, alcohol, tannins, and acidity. As good as it gets, it needs just 2-4 years in the cellar and will evolve gracefully for at least 20-25 years.
-Jeb Dunnuck 100 Points
In the far northwest corner of the Sonoma Coast appellation, near the town of Annapolis, the vineyard sits just five miles from the Pacific Ocean, and provides a poignant setting for producing pinot noir with elegance, great precision, and intensity.
Review:
The 2021 Pinot Noir Goldrock Estate is deep, rich and explosive. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, blood orange, menthol, spice and rose petals are all amplified in this dramatic Sonoma Coast Pinot. The complexity and intensity here are simply unreal. Give this time, there's a lot of wine in the glass.
-Vinous 96 Points