The Akitabare Brewery
"Koshiki Junzukuri" (The Old Way) read the characters on Akitabare Sake Brewing Company's junmai label, and a glimpse inside the brewery shows why. Many of the tools from a hundred years ago–the huge wooden basin for soaking the rice, the giant kama for steaming it–are still in use
today.
Considerable technical innovation has occurred in the sake world over the last hundred years and many of the new tools and techniques have elevated the level of sake quality. But when change is just for the sake of modernization, or to increase productivity, or to maximize earnings, there is always a trade-off in quality. And this is a trade-off that Akitabare has never been willing to make.
What this commitment means in practice is delicacy, precision and care at every step of the brewing process. Akitabare sakes possess perfect balance, a mild aroma and a subtlely expressed but very distinct taste profile. They tend to appeal to experienced connoisseurs not overly impressed with flowery aromas and ornate flavors and for whom balance, clarity and finesse are the mark of a superior label.
"People's taste may change over time, and our sakes will change as well, but they will always have a satisfying taste and a distinct personality," says Kazuo Kawaguchi, the brewery's president. "If we had a motto, it would be 'fierce adherence to tradition, skillful adaptation to change.' If we were a flower, we would be a peony."
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Gap's Crown Vineyard has become one of the most iconic Pinot noir vineyards in the Sonoma Coast. It was originally developed by Premier Pacific Vineyards between 2002 and 2005 and later purchased by Price Family Vineyards in 2013. In 2007, Sojourn Cellars became one of the best to make a vineyard-designate wine from Gap's Crown. Our clone 115 block, planted in 2005 on 3309 root stock at 800 feet elevation, has been the foundation for Sojourn since we began making Pinot noir from this vineyard. Our clone 828 block was planted in 2002 on 420A root stock, and two clone 667 blocks round out the blend, both planted in 2004 on 3309 root stock. This hillside vineyard is situated on the western slope of Sonoma Mountain and is cooled by the persistent wind and fog of the Petaluma Gap.
WINEMAKER NOTES: The 2021 growing season offered optimal conditions in the Sonoma Coast to harvest grapes of exceptional quality. The air remained clear with no res in Sonoma and pandemic lock downs ended. Our spirits were lifted and the grape harvest and wine quality benefited. . Brief heat waves in August and September ripened the grapes to ideal maturity as the weather stayed dry until major rains arrived October 22, after our grapes were harvested. Yields were lower than average in 2021, with small berries and loose clusters creating wines of increased depth and concentration. In 2021 we blended destemmed clone 115 and clone 667, while fermenting all the clone 828 100% whole-cluster. The resulting wine, our 15th vintage of Pinot noir from Gap’s Crown Vineyard, offers complex layers of elegant fruit flavors with a bold strength at its core.
Review:
Like a majority of the Sojourn 2021 Pinot Noirs, the Gap’s Crown is also aged in 50% new French oak but sees approximately 15% whole cluster during fermentation. This Pinot Noir is always one of my favorites coming out of the Sonoma Coast, and the Sojourn 2021 is another beautiful example. A shimmering ruby-garnet core with a blueish rim in the glass, it assembles bountiful notes of dark cherry compote, fresh black raspberry, spiced blue plum skin, brown mushroom, salty sea breeze, liquid chocolate, and hints of dried lemongrass. Complex, engaging, and downright delicious, this should be a wine that everyone should seek out to try. 1025 cases were produced. Better in 2023 and then enjoy for the next 12–15 years. Highly recommended and editor’s choice.
- International Wine Report 97 Points
Ruttenstock Gruner Veltliner Ried Reipersberg DAC is 100% Gruner Veltliner.
The wine offers a touch of pear, spice and dried fruit aromas on the nose, and exotic fruit characters.
Minerality emerges from the primary rock soils, followed by an elegant and lively finish.
Pairs well with chicken and pork dishes.