The Akitabare Brewery
"Koshiki Junzukuri" (The Old Way) read the characters on Akitabare Sake Brewing Company's junmai label, and a glimpse inside the brewery shows why. Many of the tools from a hundred years ago–the huge wooden basin for soaking the rice, the giant kama for steaming it–are still in use
today.
Considerable technical innovation has occurred in the sake world over the last hundred years and many of the new tools and techniques have elevated the level of sake quality. But when change is just for the sake of modernization, or to increase productivity, or to maximize earnings, there is always a trade-off in quality. And this is a trade-off that Akitabare has never been willing to make.
What this commitment means in practice is delicacy, precision and care at every step of the brewing process. Akitabare sakes possess perfect balance, a mild aroma and a subtlely expressed but very distinct taste profile. They tend to appeal to experienced connoisseurs not overly impressed with flowery aromas and ornate flavors and for whom balance, clarity and finesse are the mark of a superior label.
"People's taste may change over time, and our sakes will change as well, but they will always have a satisfying taste and a distinct personality," says Kazuo Kawaguchi, the brewery's president. "If we had a motto, it would be 'fierce adherence to tradition, skillful adaptation to change.' If we were a flower, we would be a peony."
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Bastgen Blauschiefer Riesling is 100 percent Riesling.
Bright, clean, fresh and zesty. Grapefruit like flavors. Fruity aromas and a nice minerality, typical of the Riesling grape grown on blue slate soil. Round, rich and a very long finish.
They meticulously tend 4.5 ha (11.11 acres) of which 80% is Riesling. The soil is made of slate. Their vineyards are located in Kesten and Brauneberg, on a steep terrace, and planted to 50-year old vines. Fortunately for Bastgen, they own part of the famous Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr. The vines produce very small, ripe berries that are very tasty.
Review:
"Very enticing nose of ripe pear with some white peach and floral aromas! All the elegance and delicacy we expect from high-quality Mosel riesling, but this light-bodied and dry beauty is only an entry-level wine! Long, refreshing and delicate finish. This will be a bargain in all the markets it reaches. From organically grown grapes. Drink now. Screw cap. "
- James Sucking (November 2023), 92 pts
Cabrieres Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge L'Esprit is made from 50% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault and 10% remaining: Muscardin, Counoise, Picpoul, Terret noir, Vaccarèse, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Picardan.
The vineyard is situated on the high tablelands, which are characteristic of the northern area of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The terrain consists mainly of alpine diluvium and chalky Miocenian soil, with large flint pebbles covering the surface. These pebbles conserve the heat of the day during the night, thus avoiding too much evaporation.
85-year-old vines. Aged 12 months in French oak. Intense ruby color, with a dominant nose of black fruits (blackcurrant and blackberry) evolving into smoke and grilled notes. Robust tannins on the palate with a long finish.
Pair with choice red meat, prime rib and game, or try with strong cheeses and chocolate dessert.