" We don't sell the wine without touching the vine "
Wine from Akitabare Brewing Company
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The Akitabare Brewery
"Koshiki Junzukuri" (The Old Way) read the characters on Akitabare Sake Brewing Company's junmai label, and a glimpse inside the brewery shows why. Many of the tools from a hundred years ago–the huge wooden basin for soaking the rice, the giant kama for steaming it–are still in use
today.
Considerable technical innovation has occurred in the sake world over the last hundred years and many of the new tools and techniques have elevated the level of sake quality. But when change is just for the sake of modernization, or to increase productivity, or to maximize earnings, there is always a trade-off in quality. And this is a trade-off that Akitabare has never been willing to make.
What this commitment means in practice is delicacy, precision and care at every step of the brewing process. Akitabare sakes possess perfect balance, a mild aroma and a subtlely expressed but very distinct taste profile. They tend to appeal to experienced connoisseurs not overly impressed with flowery aromas and ornate flavors and for whom balance, clarity and finesse are the mark of a superior label.
"People's taste may change over time, and our sakes will change as well, but they will always have a satisfying taste and a distinct personality," says Kazuo Kawaguchi, the brewery's president. "If we had a motto, it would be 'fierce adherence to tradition, skillful adaptation to change.' If we were a flower, we would be a peony."
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Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge is made from 30% each Grenache and Mourvèdre, with 10% each Counoise and Syrah, plus 20% other permitted varieties, including a healthy proportion of white grapes.
The story :
Château de Beaucastel has long been considered one of the great wines of France. It is unanimously renowned for its balance, elegance and ageing potential. Beaucastel has an extraordinary terroir at the Northern end of the appellation with heavy exposure to the Mistral. All 13 varieties of the appellation have been organically grown here since the sixties.
Location :
Châteauneuf du Pape, between Orange and Avignon, Château de Beaucastel red is a 70-hectare vineyard.
Terroir :
Château de Beaucastel is 110 hectares, with one single plot at the north of the appellation. The terroir is archetypal of the best terroirs in Châteauneuf: rolled pebbles on the surface, sand, clay and limestone deeper down. The vines are old and have been organically grown for 50 years, which has allowed the roots to grow exceptionally deep.
Beaucastel grows all thirteen grape varieties authorised by the appellation.
Ageing :
Each variety is harvested manually and separately. Vinification is completed in truncated oak barrels for the reductive grapes (Mourvèdre and Syrah) and in traditional tiled cement tanks for the oxidative grapes (such as Grenache). After the malolactic fermentations, the family blends the different varieties and then the wine ages in oak Foudres for a year before bottling.
Review:
deep, quite herbal expression, with liquorice and crushed blueberries to the cassis fruit. Full-bodied, powerfully fruited, dense and deep. Really mouthcoating, intense fruit. The tannins are ripe, fine and plentiful, all saturated in blackberry juice on a long finish. Certainly one of the more successful Châteauneufs this year. Will age well. A Mourvèdre-led expression of Beaucastel - it contains more than usual, at least 35% and probably more. Grenache and Cinsault fermented in cement, Syrah and Mourvèdre fermented in foudre. (MW) (9/2022)
-Decanter 96 Points
In the far northwest corner of the Sonoma Coast appellation, near the town of Annapolis, the vineyard sits just five miles from the Pacific Ocean, and provides a poignant setting for producing pinot noir with elegance, great precision, and intensity.
Review:
The 2021 Pinot Noir Goldrock Estate is a deep, saturated ruby. Fresh aromas of wet rocks, black raspberry, and pressed flowers lift from the glass, with a touch of spice. Medium to full-bodied, it has good structure, with fresh acidity and notes of crunchy red cherry and fresh pine, as well as fine tannins. Its perfume lasts right through to its clean, lifted finish. This is a lovely wine to drink 2025-2040.
-Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points
The 2021 Pinot Noir Goldrock Estate is deep, rich and explosive. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, blood orange, menthol, spice and rose petals are all amplified in this dramatic Sonoma Coast Pinot. The complexity and intensity here are simply unreal. Give this time, there's a lot of wine in the glass.
-Vinous 96 Points
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