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#32 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2023

Delicate red in color. The incredibly expressive bouquet offers notes of sandalwood, herbs de Provence, and Red Delicious apples. On the palate, freshly picked red huckleberries provide tart and lasting succulence with a hint of baking spice. The sandy soils of the Chehalem Mountains offer salinity and minerality on the finish that is complemented with dark cherry and rhubarb.

Review:

Supple, richly textured and elegantly complex, this Pinot opens with a burst of fresh raspberry, then unfolds with notes of forest floor and brown baking spices, plus a touch of licorice as it builds tension toward refined tannins.

-Wine Spectator 95 Points

The first impression of this stunning red is of brilliant red raspberry fruit, as pure as a sunbeam. Yet an inky depth plays counterpoint, rumbling beneath, dark and a bit spicy, grounding the fruit with tannins from the silica-based soils of Bergström’s estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains. The tension between these two elements is gorgeous, the fruit saturating and full, and yet it has an energy and drive giving the texture a lifted, graceful feel.

-Wine & Spirits 95 Points

Bertani Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore Catullo is made from 70% Corvina Veronese, 20% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella.  Valpolicella Classica, Tenuta Novare Estate in Arbizzano di Negrar.

Wine of medium structure with elegant spicy notes of vanilla and chocolate accompanied by typical notes of cherry, sour cherry and white pepper. The palate offers the easy drinkability typical of Valpolicella and, at the same time, silky tannic structure and intense, prolonged aromatic persistence. The finish is fresh, soft and savory. A wine in the classic style, elegant, balanced, harmonious.

Review:

If I was forced to choose a number of wines that can steer the anachronistic Ripasso category into a brighter future, this would be among a very few. A mid-weighted, streamlined expression with just enough fruit on the bones. Think strawberries, lilacs, Asian plums, cloves and a hint of licorice. A noble, almost alpine bitterness lifts the finish. Brilliant. Drink or hold.

-James Suckling 95 Points

Betz Family La Serenne Syrah is 100% Syrah

La Serenne is the most reflective of the site/vintage dynamic of our three single-site 2012 Syrahs. Lovers of this wine know that its source, the Boushey Vineyard, is the highest altitude of the three vineyards and is typically the latest harvested. This cool site was accentuated by the cooler season and the results reflect the seriousness of this vineyard and its care.

An extraordinary, nearly impenetrable black purple color leads to a concentrated, inky aromatic impression: smoky black cherry and wild blackberry dominate, but a litany of supporting aromas is already emerging: smoke, violet, mushroom, roasted meat, Chinese 5 spice and minerals. It has a full attack on entry and a big, rich mouthfeel that goes on and on.

Review:

Aromas of blackberries, black raspberries, violets, black and white peppercorns and stones. It’s medium-bodied with fine, tightly knit tannins. Seamless and transparent with a silky texture. Very bright and pure with layers of wild berries and minerals. Tar and dark tobacco, too. Drink or hold.

-James Suckling 95 Points

Bling de la Ferme Blanche Sparkling Millesime is made from 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Clairette.

This is a Traditional Method Vintage Sparkling wine. Grapes are coming from the region of Cassis, but this sparkling wine can't be classified as Cassis AOC as the AOC is strictly for still White, Rosé and Red. 

It is made with the local grape variety : Sauvignon Blanc and Clairette.

Fine bubbles, crisp and delicate, citrus zest, lime, stone fruit.

Intense ruby ​​​​color of high layer with garnet edge, clean and shiny. Intense nose that, from the beginning, transmits complexity, penetrating, with aromas of black fruits, blueberries and currants, undergrowth, roasted memories, toffee, coffee powder, liquorice, cloves, vanilla and lebanese cedar. Mouth with freshness and balance, with tannins ripe and creamy, which highlight its elegance, with a step harmonious and intense. Long and pleasant aftertaste, with a great variety of balsamic and spicy memories.

Review:

The old-vine component of the El Otero parcel, running to around seven hectares, supplies the fruit for this ageworthy Tinto Fino. After a frost-induced break in 2017, it's back with interest in 2018. Aged in new French oak, but not dominated by the wood, it's a finely judged red from Julio Sáenz with notes of blackberry and tangerine, filigree tannins and a long, textured finish. 2023-33

-Tim Atkin 96 Points

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Deep cherry red in color with a garnet rim. On the nose, it is intense and elegant, with a base of ripe fruits that blends with the subtle tertiary aromas of sweet spices and cocoa. On the palate, it is balanced, full-bodied but with sweet and pleasant tannins, with a long and very persistent aftertaste.

Review:

Boizel Grand Vintage Brut is made from 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir.

BACKGROUND

In 1834 the Boizel House was established in Épernay, the heart of Champagne, by a family passionate about the wines of its region. Intimate knowledge of the Champagne region, passed on through the generations, and access to grapes from the finest cru sites, are the essential elements behind the Boizels’ elegant portfolio. Working with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced only from Champagne’s most coveted Grands and Premiers Crus blended with the best crus of Pinot Meunier, Boizel’s intimate knowledge of each village and hillside coupled with longstanding grower relationships allows them the ability to select the finest quality grapes for their Champagnes.

TERROIR & VINTAGE NOTES

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes for the production of the Grand Vintage wines are sourced from Grands and Premiers Cru vineyards within the villages of La Montagne de Reims (Pinot Noir) and the Côte des Blancs (Chardonnay). Pinot Meunier is sourced from the best sites within the Vallée de la Marne.

All wines are aged sur lie in Boizel’s historic chalk cellars beneath the Avenue de Champagne for a minimum of 3 years, climbing to 15 years and above for the best vintages.

WINEMAKING & AGEING

A unique expression of the vintage, the Grand Vintage is only produced in the best years. This cuvée is a blend of 50% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs (Mesnil sur Oger, Oger, Avize, Vertus) and 50% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims (Mailly, Bisseuil, Chigny les Roses).

The wine was aged 8 months in stainless steel vats. Post second fermentation, the wine was aged for 8 years on its lees.

TASTING NOTES

Due to the long lees aging, almond, frangipane, candied orange and brioche aromas are rich and balanced. The palate is complex and mature, with the silky perlage supplying acidity and lift. Elegant pastry notes rounds out the finish.

Review:

Disgorged in October 2014, this smooth, now mature, wine has flavors of yeasty toastiness and a tight, mineral structure. Sliced apple and lemon zest still give freshness. Behind the fruit, crisp texture and a steely edge await. It is beautifully balanced, rich while dry and ready to drink. ROGER VOSS

-Wine Enthusiast 94 Points

Bouchard Pere & Fils Nuits-Saint-Georges is made from 100 percent Pinot Noir. 

Intense aromas of berry fruit and spices on the nose. Rich, tannic and well structured, this wine develops additional roundness after a few years in bottle. Good ageing potential. Pairs well with game, venison, all grilled and roasted meat.

Boussey Meursault Vieilles Vignes is made from 100 percent Chardonnay. 

The grapes for Meursault Vieilles Vignes come from the parcels located in Meursault. They were planted in 1960 and 1970. 

The wine has a beautiful golden-green color. The nose displays aromas of almond, hazelnut with an elegant oaky touch. In the palate, it is full-bodied with good length. Long and intense acidity. Great finesse, purity and elegance.

The Meursault Vieilles Vignes goes well with Foie gras, Fish in creamy sauce, Lobster or also by itself as an aperitif.

Boussey Volnay Premier Cru Les Taillepieds is made from 100 percent Pinot Noir. 

The grapes for this Volnay Premier Cru Les Taillepieds are coming from the vineyard located in the middle of the coteau, halfway up the hill, with a very nice South sun exposure, allowing to reach an optimal ripeness every year. 

The wine displays a nice ruby and garnet color. It boasts aromas of red and black fruit, fig, and violet. 

It always has a lot of finesse and elegance, but also a great length to the finish, with juicy and round tannins. 

Pair with frog legs with parsley and garlic, omelette, duck and cheese. 

Slightly filtered before bottling.The wine is then aged in French Oak barrels for 12 months. (25% new barrels).
The Volnay Premier Cru Les Taillepieds is vinified in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.
Surface area : 0.2 hectare (0.49 acres)

Brize Loire Renaissance Anjou Blanc is made from 100% Chenin Blanc.

Anjou Blanc Renaissance was entirely fermented and aged in French oak barrels. The wine is dry and powerful with an intense bouquet of apricot, vanilla and honey.

Excellent when paired with lobster or white fish with a creamy sauce.

Burgo Viejo Rioja Blanco Organic is made from 60% Viura and 40% Trempranillo Blanco

No Oak. Aged 3 months on the lees with frequent batonnage

Pale yellow color with green tones. Fresh and intense flavors of white fruits, peach, apple and some citrus notes.
Full-bodied mouth with nice balance of volume and length.

Vineyards are located in Alfaro. 
Manual harvest in 8 kilograms baskets. 
100% destemmed.
Light pressing of the grapes. 
Fermentation at controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. 
No Malolactic fermentation.
Aged 3 months on the lees with frequent batonnage. (stirring of the lees)

Pairs with seafood, pasta and rice dishes, smooth cheeses.

Burgo Viejo Rioja Reserva is made from 85% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha & 5% Carignan.

Burgo Viejo Rioja Reserva presents with red ruby color; black pepper and vanilla flavors and some mature black fruit taste too. Well-balanced, well-structured and elegant in mouth displaying some splendid taste of fruit and bouquet too.

Burgo Viejo Reserva Wine vinification has occurred blending different grape varieties to produce an aged wine that will surely keep maturity and fullness from the vineyard until the very moment of uncorking.

VINIFICATION: Alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel vats at controlled temperature; aged in American and French oak barrels -50% each- for 18 months.

Enjoy it with red meat and game.

Review:

"Elegant berries and spiced cherries with a hint of oranges and undergrowth on the nose. Juicy and evenly packed with a fluid, medium-bodied palate and soft tannins. Drink now - Zekun SHUAI (Senior Editor)"

- James Suckling (May 4th 2023), 91 pts

Camus Graves Blanc is made from 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Semillon.

A beautiful, brilliant color, this wine offers a great aromatic balance with complex and mineral notes, Offering white fruit (peach and pear), citrus (grapefruit and lemon), and a toasty finish with a delicate oak presence. The mouthfeel is rich and complex with a great minerality, freshness, structure, and a good length to the finish.

Pairs with poultry, fish, and shellfish.

Camus Graves Blanc is made from 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Semillon.

A beautiful, brilliant color, this wine offers a great aromatic balance with complex and mineral notes, Offering white fruit (peach and pear), citrus (grapefruit and lemon), and a toasty finish with a delicate oak presence. The mouthfeel is rich and complex with a great minerality, freshness, structure, and a good length to the finish.

Pairs with poultry, fish, and shellfish.

Chakana Estate Red Mendoza is made from 70% Malbec, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc

Deep red color with violet hints. Dark fruits and exotic spices with tobacco and mocha hints. Elegant, well balanced, harmonious, long persistence with chocolate flavors.

Vineyard: Gualtallary in Valle de Uco.

2 days maceration on skins in temperature controlled steel vats; 12 days fermentation with selected yeasts allowed to rise to a maximum of 28°C.

   Review:

 
- Tim Atkin (Argentina Report 2023), 92 pts

Charles Smith Sixto Uncovered Chardonnay is made from 100 percent Chardonnay. 

Not from here, this wine is otherworldly. Apricot, stone, pippin apple, sea breeze, and wildflowers mingle to create this compelling beauty. Sit down and take your time with this wine, to savor the incredible structure, with a long and lingering presence of toasted almonds, apple blossom, and flint. A wonderful journey!.

Review:

What a pretty nose. Lemon peel, fresh white flowers, lavender, crushed sage and wet stone. Medium-to full-bodied with carrying acidity. Extremely articulate and graceful on the palate with bright citrus and a dried-floral note. Impressive depth and length. Salty and tangy on the finish with vibrancy. Drink or hold.
-James Suckling 96 Points

Chateau Arnauds des Bordeaux Rouge is made from 100% Merlot.

The wine shows a deep red purple color and intense aromas of black fruits (blackcurrant, black cherry) with hints of liquorice. Very fruity and well-balanced. It is powerful and well structured in the mouth with round and silky tannins, ripe flavors of black fruits. Strong and a slightly spicy finish.

Grapes are coming from 30 year old vines planted on gravelly soils. 

The land benefits from sun exposure, warmth and humidity that are strong assets for the vine culture.

The wine pairs well with game meat and beef on the grill.

Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas is made from  70% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 14% Syrah, 1% Cinsaut.

The wine shows intense blackberry and fig fruit with licorice, violets, and charcoal on the finish. It is remarkably fresh and finessed given the sun and warmth of the southern Rhône. The unique micro-climate combined with 60-year-old vines and traditional winemaking make Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas the benchmark wine of the appellation.

Review:

 
Leading off the Gigondas, the base 2020 Gigondas has lots of black raspberry, ground pepper, and violets notes as well as a round, supple, silky style on the palate. It should be approachable on release, yet it has plenty of mid-palate depth as well as tannins, and I have no doubt it will evolve for 20 years if properly stored.

-Jeb Dunnuck 91-93 Points

Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas Le Claux is made from 95% Grenache, 5% Syrah.

Château de Saint Cosme is the leading estate of Gigondas and produces the benchmark wines of the appellation. The property has been in the hands of the Barruol family since 1490. Louis Barruol took over from his father in 1992 making a dramatic shift to quality and converting to biodynamics in 2010.

Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas Le Claux is the estate’s oldest vineyard and sits near the entrance to the winery. “It was first planted in 1870 following phylloxera. My uncles thought it wasn’t producing enough fruit and planned to uproot it in 1914,” says Louis Barruol, but “World War I interrupted that plan.”

The 1.8-hectare Le Claux—meaning “Clos” in old French—is a field blend of predominately Grenache. Louis Barruol believes 10% of the vineyard is from the original 1870 planting. Vines are replaced by massal selection and the average vine age is 60-years. The wine is made with whole cluster fermentation from indigenous yeasts, is aged in 20% new 228-liter barrels, and bottled without fining or filtration.

Tasting Notes

Brilliant violet color. Displays pungent, mineral- and spice-accented cherry, black raspberry, potpourri and licorice aromas, along with hints of savory herbs, vanillo and incense. Chewy and tightly focused on the palate, offering bitter cherry, dark berry and Moroccan spice flavors that unfurl slowly through the back half. It closes with firm tension, chewy tannins and excellent tenacity, leaving resonating cherry and floral notes behind. All barriques, a third of them new.

-Vinous 95-97 Points