" We don't sell the wine without touching the vine "
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Clos Saint-Jean is a 41-hectare estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape run by brothers Vincent and Pascal Maurel. Considered by many critics and wine-writers as the preeminent estate espousing the modern style of winemaking in Châteauneuf, this cellar is one of the oldest in the region, having been founded in 1900 by the greatgreat-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal, Edmund Tacussel. A short time after its founding and well before the AOP of Chateauneuf-du-Pape was created in 1923, Edmund began bottling estate wines in 1910.
The farming at Clos Saint-Jean is fully sustainable due to the warm and dry climate, which prevents the need for chemical inputs. Instead, Vincent and Pascal employ organic methods for pest control, mainly pheromones, to prevent pests from taking up residence in their vines, a process called amusingly enough in French, confusion sexuelle. The vines tended manually, and harvest is conducted in several passes entirely by hand.
Combe des Fous literally means, the hill of the fool. The hill, in this case, is located in the far southern reach of Le Crau which was left barren for many centuries because the layer of galets was so exceedingly deep that everyone assumed vines could never survive there. The fool in this situation is Edmund Tacussel, the great-great-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal Maruel who planted a Grenache vineyard on this site in 1905. That old-vine Grenache form the heart of this cuvée with a small amount of Syrah, Cinsault and Vaccarèse. La Combe des Fous is only made in the best vintages.
Review:
Pumps out heady raspberry, mulberry and blackberry compote notes that keep form and direction, thanks to a roasted apple wood spine and flanking ganache, garrigue and warm earth notes. Seriously grippy finish. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Vaccarèse.
-Wine Spectator 96 Points
The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Combe Des Fous is a normal blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and the rest Vaccarèse and Cinsault. Beautiful, full-bodied aromas and flavors of ripe black raspberries, violets, ground pepper, lavender, and herbes de Provence all emerge from this gorgeous barrel sample, and it shows the pure, fresh, yet still concentrated style of the vintage brilliantly.
-Jeb Dunnuck 94-97 Points
2020 VINTAGE: The harvest 2020 in Vaudevey started on September 1st. The harvest yields were impacted by drought, particularly for the certain plots that were well exposed to the sun. The ripening of the grapes was slow, which helped aromas to concentrate and acidity to be kept.
GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Chardonnay
VINEYARD: Domaine Laroche is one of only three proprietors in Premier Cru Les Vaudevey, owning 24.61 acres of the 102.13 acres premier cru vineyard. Planted on steep slopes of 30-50% at 640 to 771 feet with an eastern to southeastern exposure, the vines enjoy morning to early afternoon sun. The coolest valley of the Domaine Laroche vineyard—always the last one to be harvested.
VINE DENSITY: 5,880 vines per hectare (2,380 vines per acre); massal selection from Laroche old vines for the new plantings VITICULTURE: One man, one plot: There are more than 30 people who are dedicated to caring for the 90-plus hectares (222.39 acres) of Domaine Laroche vineyards, with each person responsible for only one plot. This tailor-made approach allows them to manage the vineyards with precision, speed and accuracy.
PRESSING: The grapes are harvested and sorted by hand. Whole bunches are pressed in a pneumatic press, and then the must settles for 12 hours at 10° C to 12°C (50° F to 54° F) in large vats.
FERMENTATION: The must ferments for 3 weeks, 74% in stainless steel vats and 26% in French oak barrels.
MATURATION: Nine months in 72% stainless steel tank, the rest in barrels. only 5% new oak in total. FILTRATION: Minimal filtration is used to preserve and maximize the natural character of the wine. ALCOHOL: 12% TASTING NOTES: Bright gold in color. Hints of minerality layered with citrus notes of lemon peel. Nervy, racy and lively. You can enjoy it by the glass, with oysters, seafood and smoked salmon. Also, pairs well with Asian food and light cheese.
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