Every now and then, in life and in wine, we are presented with unique opportunities to express ourselves and create something truly remarkable.
When rare opportunities arise, we need to capture, nurture and develop them so that their potential is fulfilled. So when Torbreck was given the opportunity to work with one of the most famous vineyards in the Barossa Valley, it became almost inevitable that the resulting wine would be truly remarkable.
In 2003, Torbreck growers and fourth generation descendants of the Seppelt family, Malcolm and Joylene Seppelt, asked our winemakers to create for them a small batch of Shiraz from their old Gnadenfrei vineyard in the sub-region of Marananga.
Planted in 1958, the five acre vineyard is traditionally dry grown and comes from an original Barossa clonal source. South facing, on the eastern side of a ridge separating the Seppeltsfield and Marananga appellations, these aged vines have been meticulously hand tended, traditionally farmed and pruned by a grower with a lifetime’s experience on Western Barossa soils of very dark, heavy clay loam over red friable clay. The resulting low yields of small, concentrated Shiraz berries make the vineyard the envy of all winemakers in the Barossa.
We looked longingly at the wine when it was returned to the Seppelts, knowing that it was the best we had ever made. In 2005 we convinced the Seppelts to sell Torbreck the fruit and The Laird was born. In 2013 Torbreck purchased the Gnadenfrei vineyard, securing The Laird’s reputation as one of the world’s great single vineyard Shiraz wines.
Torbreck is the name of a forest near Inverness, Scotland and you’ll find more than a passing nod to the Celts in our wine naming conventions. The Laird of the Estate in Scotland is the Lord of the Manor and master of all he surveys.
Review:
I poured the 2017 The Laird, set it aside and got about doing other jobs for 45 minutes or so, to give it some room to breathe. And it does breathe. It has its own pulse and beat and life, and it flexes and moves in the mouth. This is incredibly enveloping, with aromas reminiscent of campfire coals, charred eucalyptus, lamb fat, roasted beetroot, black tea and a prowling sort of countenance. In the mouth, the wine is bonded and cohesive and seamless, there are no gaps between anything, no space between fruit, oak and tannin; it all comes as one. While this is a singular wine, it is so big and concentrated that it needs no accompaniment other than some fresh air and a good mate. It's denser than osmium and is impenetrable at this stage.
DuMOL 'Chloe' Chardonnay is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.
Our first vintage of Chloe was 2000, and although the vineyard mix has changed over the years, the wine has always focused on the central Russian River Valley district to represent the richest side of DuMOL Chardonnay. The wine has lower acidity than our coastal wines, making it more approachable in its youth, and the flavors focus more on orchard fruits than citrus. The neighboring El Diablo and Flora Marie vineyards sit overlooking the river on gravelly loam soils and provide the wine's deep fruit generosity. These are the first vineyards we harvest each year as the lean soils really advance their crop’s ripening. We offset this fruit richness with grapes from our Green Valley Bressay Estate, which overflow with tense structure and coastal acidity. It’s a seamless combination that produces a thrilling result, and Chloe is the first of our designate Chardonnays you should open each vintage.
The wine’s aromas and flavors are akin to peach, apricot, oatmeal and anise. Fresh thyme and honey notes combine with tangerine and lemon curd. It’s a deeply textural and expansive wine that gently glides along the palate. Lively acidity and spicy notes of ginger and white pepper provide lift and energy to the finish. A beautiful, layered, and richer style to enjoy soon after release. Drink between late-2024 and 2029 and serve no cooler than 55º F.
Review:
A Central Russian River Blend, the 2022 Chardonnay Chloe is a bright yellow hue and captures a wide spectrum of citrus with notes of orange, Meyer lemon, fresh pineapple, toasted spice, and a hint of almond through the mid-palate as well as a nice lift of citrus on the finish. It’s a beautiful wine offering a richer tone through the range. Drink 2024-2034.
-Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points