For over half a century, America’s premier grape-growing state has enjoyed a reputation more or less interchangeable with Cabernet Sauvignon’s. It’s the king of red wine grapes in California—and also in France—for a reason: the amazing complexity that skilled winemakers are able to coax out of it when grown in optimum locations. They know all about this in the great, old chateaux of Bordeaux, as well as at many younger, but equally prestigious, wineries in Napa Valley. The world’s best Cabernet grapes are grown in these respective regions.
On the short list of the latter sits Freemark Abbey, a St. Helena winery founded in 1886, that hasn’t been “young” for a long time. With nearly 50 vintages’ worth of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon vintages tucked away in its library, Freemark’s signature portfolio of wines represents one of the most fully realized Cabernet programs in America. They're produced by a winery whose contemporary rise to prominence has, from the 1960s to present, coincided with that of California’s fine wine industry.
Today, Freemark Abbey is many things to many people: a team of some of the most respected winemakers working in Napa Valley; a historic 1886 winery and pristine estate, with an enthusiastic hospitality program that highlights both; a collection of source vineyards up and down Napa Valley, representing several of California’s most distinctive terroirs; an extensive—and unparalleled—wine library that stretches back decades; and a winery that, because of its long history and international reputation, is one of Napa Valley’s true ambassador brands.
Freemark Abbey’s newly appointed Winemaker Emeritus, Ted Edwards, has overseen much of its ascendance. As he moves into a self-described “co-pilot” role to new Winemaker Kristy Melton, he can reflect on the changes he’s witnessed at this iconic St. Helena winery over 40 years.
Moving forward, Ted’s job will be to offer advice and counsel to Kristy and her winemaking team, to continue in a leading viticultural role, and to carry on as Freemark’s most experienced proponent. The two Rutherford vineyards, Bosché and Sycamore, are, like Ted himself, closely linked to the winery’s identity. This won’t change. What will change is Ted’s ability to focus his energy on the growing protocols at this pair of vineyards, which are closer to his winemaker’s heart than any others in Napa Valley.
The transition from Ted to Kristy in 2020 is just another step in the evolution of this extraordinary wine estate. There are bookends to the story, however, at least up to the present day: a pioneering, unstoppable woman founded the property 135 year ago, and today an equally unique and determined woman is taking charge.
Freemark Abbey Sycamore Cabernet Sauvignon is made from
Wine Profile: Opaque dark ruby describes the color of this Rutherford wine. Black currant and Boysenberry notes dominate the aroma, with dark chocolate truffle, cocoa powder, Worcestershire sauce, cremini mushrooms and forest floor adding to the complexity. The oak adds the ideal amount of complexity with aromatic cedar, cinnamon and clove. The wine has great depth of black fruit flavor, with a strong expression of sweet black cherry. This full-bodied cabernet sauvignon has resolved tannins yet firm structure, with good acidity. Lovely long finish!
Primary Vineyard: Sycamore Vineyard—Rutherford (100%): Small 24-acre vineyard located about 1.2 miles south of Bosche, right up against the Mayacamas Range, this vineyard has a rich clay loam. Sycamore Vineyard produces small berries reminiscent of mountain fruit berries, with intense extract of color and flavor. The color is very dark early in the fermentation, with flavors of black currant and black berry with a forest floor complexity.
Review:
From a vineyard closer to the Mayacamas Mountains and first made in 1980, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyards checks in as 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. It spent 27 months in 66% new French. It offers more black fruits, earth, tobacco, cedar, and gravelly minerality as well as a touch more burly, masculine style on the palate. Nevertheless, it's still beautifully balanced, has considerable elegance, and a great finish.
-Jeb Dunnuck 95 Points
Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyards gives up powerful crème de cassis, dark chocolate-covered cherries, mulberries and baked plums scents with hints of lavender, camphor, pencil shavings and dusty soil. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is packed with rich, black fruits plus a beautiful perfumed undercurrent, framed by finely grained tannins and lovely freshness, finishing with a mineral lift. 1,989 cases were made.
-Wine Advocate 95 Points
Herbal, with characteristics of peppercorn, cedar and pencil shavings, this beautiful wine is also dusty and mineral-driven, with demure flavors of red and black currant. Full bodied and well structured, it shows an underlying softness that should continue to soften in the cellar. Enjoy best from 2026–2031.
-Wine Enthusiast 95 Points
Freemark Abbey Bosche Cabernet Sauvignon is made from 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot.
The nose exhibits aromas of black cherry, mocha, cassis and forest floor. The palate is bright yet creamy and filled with notes of forest fruits, leather, baking spices and soft vanilla. The textures are vibrant and integrated making this wine lovely now with the ability to age for decades in the cellar.
Review:
Blended with 7% Merlot from the famous site, along the benchlands of the Mayacamas, this is a juicy, delicious and sophisticated wine, with impressive, complementary bolts of freshness and intensity that are fully in sync. Notes of gravel, black cherry, currant and herb ride along a structured and generous palate of memorable greatness. Enjoy best from 2028–2038. Cellar Selection
- Wine Enthusiast 98 Points
The nose opens with aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black current and boysenberry. The fruit elements are complimented with notes of forest floor, cigar box, dark chocolate and espresso. The wine is rich and balanced and French oak barrels add the ideal amount of complexity with notes of baking spice and warm vanilla. This is a full-bodied wine with integrated tannins that give it a long, lingering finish. Stunning.
Primary Vineyard: Sycamore Vineyard—Rutherford (100%): Small 24-acre vineyard located about 1.2 miles south of Bosche, right up against the Mayacamas Range, this vineyard has a rich clay loam. Sycamore Vineyard produces small berries reminiscent of mountain fruit berries, with intense extract of color and flavor. The color is very dark early in the fermentation, with flavors of black currant and black berry with a forest floor complexity.
Review:
Mint, spearmint, dark-berry and blueberry aromas. Leaves and sage, too. Full-bodied and firm with fantastic depth. Cool fruit with menthol and mint. Spice. Refreshing. Firm tannins. Fantastic 2017. Drink or hold.
-James Suckling 97 Points
Enemigo El Enemigo Gran Enemigo is made from 100% Cabernet Franc.
In the spectrum of people who pay attention to detail, winemakers are often incredibly detail-oriented. This can sometimes spill over to become an internal battled, and, as Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena state, "We are our own worst enemy." El Enemigo pays homage to this internal struggle.
The nose presents sweet aromas of black ripen fruits with hints of vanilla and chocolate, which appear after the oak ageing. The mouthfeel is sweet with structured, persistent tannins due to the natural acidity of this wine, leading into an excellent long finish.
Review:
The nose of the 2018 Gran Enemigo El Cepillo Single Vineyard, from a low-yielding and drier year, is full of curry, a note that was a constant across the three vintages I tasted together, but it tends to be stronger in low-yielding and dry years like this. It's also floral and comes through as aromatic and a little exotic, in a good way, with elegance, persistence and very pure flavors. It has fine-grained tannins, great acidity and balance. 7,200 bottles. All these single-vineyard bottlings mature in ancient 4,000-liter oak foudres for some 15 months.
-Wine Advocate 97 Points"Pretty and inviting on the nose with gorgeous aromas of floral violet, cassis and completed with a lifted, delicate liquorice note. The palate is graced with deep herb, pepper, crunchy red fruit and graceful, silky tannins."
-Decanter 97 Points
Lismore Estate Reserve Viognier is made from 100 percent Viognier.
This a Greyton WO.
Balance is the key to this wine. Viognier is an aromatic and generous varietal, it benefits from barrel maturation and lees contact with a fuller mouth feel and increased texture. This combined with the firm acid backbone and intense fruit will allow this wine to integrate beautifully and gain further complexity over the next 3-5 years.
Rich, lush and decadent. Viognier is a gorgeous variety. Honeysuckle, peaches and dried apricot with a lingering citrus finish. A clean fresh acidity supports the extravagance of the nose and the palate.
Viognier, a traditional Rhone variety is perfectly suited to Lismore’s cool-climate terrior. The vineyard block is on decomposed shale and one of the healthiest and well balanced on the farm. The entire team looks forward to the Viognier harvest and the beautiful amber tinged berries.
The grapes were picked at optimal ripeness and whole bunch pressed, slowly extracting the juice at a rate of 500ltrs per ton. The juice was settled for 48 hours and was racked into burgundian barriques (1st fill) for fermentation and maturation. The wine was left on the lees with regular “batonnage” for 11 months.
Lighter styles are often paired with curries and the like. This Viognier is different. We recommend medium bodied meals that are intense and complex. For example:
- Sesame encrusted tuna marinated in a blend of orange, lemon and lime juice spiced with sesame oil and balsamic vinegar – seared on a wood fired grill and served with griddled vegetables, or
- Free range duck breast smoked with Darjeeling tea and coriander leaves. Set on a cinnamon poached pear glazed with a gooseberry jus.
In both of these dishes, the fruit and floral aspects of the wine are complimented by the exotic and aromatic elements in the dish which are also highlighted by the spiciness from the oak fermentation; the fresh acidity freshens the palate, and yet the Lismore Viognier has the body to hold up against the weight of the duck or the tuna. It is also gorgeous with a well laid cheese platter.
Review:
"Reviewed in my 2019 and 2020 reports, but still on the market, this comes from a 0.3-hectare block that was planted 17 years ago and survived the fire last year. Rich, complex and concentrated, it has pear and apricot fruit, a hint of nectarine and a patina of vanilla and cinnamon spice. Has tightened up over the last year. 2020-23"
- Tim Atkin (South Africa 2020 Special Report), 95 pts