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Wine from Dr. Loosen
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Dynamic Rieslings from the Slate Slopes of the Mosel
The Dr. Loosen estate has been in the same family for over 200 years. When Ernst Loosen assumed ownership in 1988, he realized that with ungrafted vines averaging 60 years old in some of Germany’s best-rated vineyards, he had the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, Ernst dramatically restricts crop size, prohibits chemical fertilization, insists on very strict fruit selection, and employs gentle cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling.
Classified quality
All of Dr. Loosen’s six major vineyards were designated as “Erste Lage” — equivalent to grand cru — in the 1868 Prussian classification of Mosel vineyards. Only wines from these top-rated sites are bottled with a single-vineyard designation. All others are labeled simply as estate wines.
The Elements of Quality at Dr. Loosen
The regional climate
The Mosel’s steep, south-facing slopes create the perfect climate for Riesling, giving the vines ideal exposure to the low-lying, northern sun. Generally cool conditions allow the grapes to ripen slowly, while retaining bright acidity.
The slate soil
The Mosel’s stony soil and rocky outcroppings reflect sunlight and hold in heat, creating very warm microclimates in the best sites and helping to ensure excellent ripeness. Thin topsoil forces the vines to dig deep for water and nutrients, producing vibrant wines that capture the strong minerality of the soil.
Old, ungrafted vines
Dr. Loosen owns vines that are well over 120 years old, and all are on original rootstock (phylloxera can’t survive in the Mosel, so ungrafted vines are allowed here). Old vines produce naturally lower yields, resulting in higher concentration and richness.
Dry Rieslings
Starting with the 2008 vintage, Ernst Loosen has embarked on a quest to revive the dry Riesling style of his grandfather. Learn more
Accolades for Ernst Loosen
Winery of the Year, 2012, Wine & Spirits
Star Winemaker, Europe, 2010, Wine Behind the label, 7th ed.
European Winery of the Year nominee, 2007 & 2008, Wine Enthusiast
Best German Producer of the Past 25 Years, Wine & Spirits, 2007
Man of the Year 2005, Decanter
White Wine Maker of the Year 2005, Wine International
World’s 50 Most Influential Winemakers, Wine & Spirits
Germany’s Winemaker of the Year 2001, Gault Millau
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Appasionata Andante Pinot Noir Willamette Valley is made from 100 percent Pinot Noir.
A wonderful wine six years on. Andante means ‘gently, unhurried.’ Savoury herbs and redolent violet aromas leap from the glass, chased by fresh fruit and spice. The palate is so well structured and built for another decade but generously gives red and blue fruits and savoury spice to those with less patience. Finesse drives the red fruit to the fore, fleshy raspberry, sweet cranberries and sweet blue fruit. Ample minerality and spice deliver the finish.
-Decanter 95 Points
J. Christopher Appassionata Fortissimo Pinot Noir is made from 100 percent Pinot Noir.
Inspired by the three movements of Beethoven’s “Appassionata” Piano Sonata, there are three Appassionata Pinot Noirs, released at different tempos.
The finale of the Appassionata Pinot Sonata is Fortissimo (dynamically forceful). Selected for ultimate expressivity and longevity, it is not released until 10 years after the vintage. This is the epitome of expressive excellence that we are seeking in Willamette Valley Pinot Noir – a wine that combines brooding intensity with lilting grace and can stand alongside the classic wines of the world. The 2012 Fortissimo is muscular and full-bodied, with a deep color and seamless structure. In this phase of maturation, tertiary aromas begin to show a profound complexity and subtle earthiness that only develops with bottle age and cannot be accelerated
Review:
Loosen Bros. and J. Christopher Wines just released the Fortissimo and it is showing great acidity and fine-grained tannins. Its aromas and flavors of sweet red cherries, roasted pork shoulder and orange-pekoe tea are alive and kicking. Enjoy 2023–2032.
-Wine Enthusiast 95 Points
More intense than you might expect from an 11 year old Pinot Noir, certainly one that has been held back at the estate for 10 years before release. Grilled raspberry leaf and reductive smoky notes greet you on the nose here, with sweet black fruits softening the tangy red cherry and cranberry of Oregon Pinot, all wrapped up with waves of leather, sage and tobacco. This has power and succulence, and even at 10 years old it feels pretty young, just at the beginning of its development with a good decade ahead of it. Late release is an unusual approach in Oregon, but not so unusual if you follow Loosen’s winemaking in the Mosel, where he has been known to keep Riesling between 20 and 30 years in barrel. In this case the barrel ageing is for around two years, with the rest taking place in the bottle. Old fashioned winemaking, delicious results. 20% new oak. Fermented with natural yeast, unfiltered and unfined. Tim Malone winemaker. First time on the Place from this wine, from a vineyard in the foothills of the Chehalem Mountains in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Heavy bottle.
- Jane Anson - Inside Bordeaux 97 Points
J. Christopher Appassionata Chardonnay is made from 100 percent Chardonnay.
Appassionata Chardonnay is the expressive summit of this classic Burgundian variety in the Willamette Valley. Fermented and matured in large (500-liter) oak casks, it rests on the full lees for two years before bottling. It then rests in our cellar for another year before its release, three years after vintage. The wine’s elegant texture, fine structure and extended maturation time ensure a long life for this vibrant Chardonnay.
Whole-cluster pressing; native yeast fermentation in 500-liter French oak barrels; natural malolactic fermentation; 21 months maturation on the lees.
Review:
Anyone questioning Chardonnay’s potential in the Willamette Valley should try this rich and sophisticated wine. A silky texture, is met with mouthfilling flavors of orange sorbet, pineapple and challah bread, as well as a hint of mint. The aromas of lemon curd and petrichor are equally delightful.
- Wine Enthusiast 94 Points
Inspired by the historical winemaking techniques of Erni Loosen’s great-grandfather, the Appassionata Riesling GG is made in the same way as the Dr. Loosen Grosses Gewächs (“Great Growth”) Rieslings he produces in Germany. The GG designation indicates a dry-style wine from a vineyard of special distinction — in this case, the old-vine Medici vineyard, planted in 1976. We farm this exceptional site, which is just a few miles east on the Chehalem Mountain ridge.
The fruit for this wine was harvested from old Rieslng vines (planted in 1976) in the Medici Vineyard, which is also in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, just a few miles from the winery. We lease this vineyard and have been farming it organically since 2015. The wine was fermented in a 3,000-liter German oak cask, and rests on the full lees for 12 months before bottling. The extended lees contact allows the wine to clarify and find its own harmonious balance naturally.
Production notes:
Whole-cluster pressing; natural fermentation in a neutral 3,000-liter oak cask; matured on the full lees for 12 months; no bâtonnage.
Review:
If you prefer a thinking person's wine you'll run out of superlatives to describe this Riesling from Dr Loosen's Oregon project with J Christopher Wines. From a personal favourite, the old vines of the Medici Vineyard, the winemaking shows serious patience and determination. Fermented in a 3,000-liter, neutral oak German Fuder cask. It rests on the full lees for two years and is then held in bottle for three to five years before release. Aged, savoury and delicious. Aromas are savoury and saline. Lanolin, dandelion, seafoam, and beeswax with hints of fresh herbs and dried lemon peel. The palate is brilliant, savoury and bright and complex. Energetic flavours of wet slate, savoury bee pollen, white tea and lanolin notes. The finish offers crushed stone vibrancy.
-Decanter 93 Points
Inspired by the historical winemaking techniques of Erni Loosen’s great-grandfather, the Appassionata Riesling GG is made in the same way as the Dr. Loosen Grosses Gewächs (“Great Growth”) Rieslings he produces in Germany. The GG designation indicates a dry-style wine from a vineyard of special distinction — in this case, the old-vine Medici vineyard, planted in 1976. We farm this exceptional site, which is just a few miles east on the Chehalem Mountain ridge.
The fruit for this wine was harvested from old Rieslng vines (planted in 1976) in the Medici Vineyard, which is also in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, just a few miles from the winery. We lease this vineyard and have been farming it organically since 2015. The wine was fermented in a 3,000-liter German oak cask, and rests on the full lees for 12 months before bottling. The extended lees contact allows the wine to clarify and find its own harmonious balance naturally.
Production notes:
Whole-cluster pressing; natural fermentation in a neutral 3,000-liter oak cask; matured on the full lees for 12 months; no bâtonnage.
A heavenly, full-bodied dry Riesling with forceful minerality from 100-year-old vines grown in the blue slate soil of Graach.
Graach is a small village in the Mosel valley. It’s steep slate slopes produce wines that combine elegance with rustic strength. Grosses Gewächs (GG) is the designation for an estate’s best dry wine from a Grosse Lage (grand cru) vineyard. This limited-production wine was fermented with indigenous yeasts and kept in the barrel, on the full lees, for a year before bottling. The extended maturation time allows the wine to develop greater texture and a deeper natural harmony. This is a fully ripe wine, with vibrant aromatics and a pronounced acidity that gives it a brilliant structural precision.
Review:
Convincing proof that 2020 is an excellent vintage for dry GG on the Mosel! Cool and stony with delicate white-peach and white-currant aromas. Really takes off at the intensely slatey and racy finish.
-James Suckling 95-96 Points
Dr. Loosen Riesling Eiswein is made from 100 percent Riesling.
This vibrant, racy dessert wine conjures flavors of densely packed pear, apple and guava, with an intense, nervy edge in the aroma. It is luscious, silky and juicy on the palate, with bright acidity giving it a crisp, dynamic finish.
Review:
This is extremely rich, yet the acidity keeps it on its toes. The palate is rich, sporting rhubarb and apricot flavors that are laced by hints of earth, coriander seed and honeyed oolong tea. It has an appealing sweet tart character that takes over and is matched by super suave texture. Shows incredible persistence through the long finish. Drink now through 2050.
-Wine Enthusiast 95 Points
Dr. Loosen Riesling Eiswein is made from 100 percent Riesling.
This vibrant, racy dessert wine conjures flavors of densely packed pear, apple and guava, with an intense, nervy edge in the aroma. It is luscious, silky and juicy on the palate, with bright acidity giving it a crisp, dynamic finish.
Review:
Dr. Loosen Riesling Eiswein is made from 100 percent Riesling.
This vibrant, racy dessert wine conjures flavors of densely packed pear, apple and guava, with an intense, nervy edge in the aroma. It is luscious, silky and juicy on the palate, with bright acidity giving it a crisp, dynamic finish.
Review:
Eiswein is a daunting test of patience for a producer working with what the vintage gives. The Loosens use grapes from Urzig and Erden to hedge their bets in a long, extended harvest. After the grapes freeze, it is time to pick. This is a special Eiswein with tangy notes of peach vinaigrette paired with the flavor of white chocolate-dipped raspberries, a combination that tantalizes the palate.
-Wine & Spirits Magazine 95 Points
Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Alte Reben Riesling Grosses Gewachs is made from 100 percent Riesling.
This is one of the greatest vineyards in the Middle Mosel. This precipitously steep, rocky vineyard consistently yields some of the most elegant and sophisticated white wines in the world. Citrus and white peach flavors predominate when the wines are young, turning to a pure expression of the mineral soil as they age.
Reviews:
Tasted as a cask sample in Wiesbaden in August 2021, the 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG Alte Reben offers a very intense and beautifully spicy, slatey nose. Rich and intense on the palate, with remarkable freshness and lemon flavors, this is an intense and dense, very salty and persistent Sonnenuhr from ancient vines. Very promising.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 93-95
Stunning white-fruit and floral aromas are married to a full and very silky body. Concentration and gracefulness all at once. A charmer with more than enough structure.
-James Suckling 94-95 Points
-James Suckling 94-95 Points
Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is made from 100 percent Riesling.
An endlessly energizing late-harvest Riesling from a selection of botrytis-affected grapes harvested in the “sundial” vineyard. This precipitously steep, rocky vineyard consistently yields some of the most elegant and sophisticated white wines in the world. Auslese means “selected from the harvest,” and is a luscious sweet wine made from very ripe clusters that are about 50 percent affected by botrytis. The resulting wine is dense, intensely flavored and rich on the palate, but retains the elegant structure that is characteristic of this great site.
Review:
Rich, but very elegant and creamy with beautiful, peachy character and lovely, floral-honey notes. Long, very silky finish. Drink or hold.
James Suckling 95 Points
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Bastgen Berncastel-Cueser Weisenstein Riesling Spatlese Trocken is made from 100 percent Riesling.
Bright, clean, fresh and zesty. Grapefruit like flavors. Fruity aromas and a nice minerality, typical of the Riesling grape grown on blue slate soil. Round, rich and a very long finish. The grapes for this wine are vigorously selected. Botrytis is not tolerated. At harvest the grapes are fully ripened, have a golden color, and a soft tartness. After a long spontaneous fermentation in a traditional 1000L barrel, the wine just reaches the dry stage. This gives the wine a creamy structure that interplays with ripe yellow and exotic fruit aromas.
They meticulously tend 4.5 ha (11.11 acres) of which 80% is Riesling. The soil is made of slate. Their vineyards are located in Kesten and Brauneberg, on a steep terrace, and planted to 50-year old vines. Fortunately for Bastgen, they own part of the famous Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr. The vines produce very small, ripe berries that are very tasty.
Review:
"This dry Mosel riesling is GG in all but name! Complex nose of white peach and red-fleshed vineyard peach with herb garden notes. Very elegant and polished this glides over your palate, the precision of flavor on the medium-bodied palate is very impressive. Then comes the wet stone and red berry finish that doesn’t want to stop. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold."
- James Suckling (November 2023), 95 pts
Aroma: Expressiv and elegant, the aroma is dominated by red fruits with subtle undertones of black fruits, floral notes, and a hint of wood.Color: Cherry red color, clean and bright. Taste: The palate is elegant, with a fruity freshness and silky tannins.
The grapes from San Vicente were aged for nine months in foudres and French oak barrels of different sizes, while the wine from Leza was refined for twelve months in French oak barrels. After blending, the wine was aged for five months in concrete tanks. For further protection the wine contains sulphites.
Review:
"Black olives, dark cherries and some roasted herbs and spices. Firm, fine-grained tannins on the palate, with a chalky form. Medium- to full-bodied with a long, tense finish. Drink or hold. - Zekun Shuai (Senior Editor)"
- James SUCKLING (September 11th 2024), 92 pts
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