Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Zwerithaler is a sub-site of Buschenberg and sits to the east of Weißenkirchen. The name Zwerithaler, meaning "nestled between the valleys," is a near monopole of Weingut Prager. It has a complex soil of paragneiss with alternating layers of dark and calcareous rock. Zwerithaler Kammergut is a 0.34-hectare parcel planted before WWI. The wine from these ungrafted, 100-year-old vines was bottled separately by Prager for the first time in 2015.
Light greenish yellow, silver reflections. Fine savory, delicate nuances of anise, tobacco notes, delicate yellow fruit, a touch of mango and honey blossom. Full-bodied, juicy white apple fruit, well-integrated, silky acidity structure, finesse and long persistence, saline finish, lingers for minutes, Veltliner at its best.
-Falstaff 99 Points
"The aromas of this old-vine gruner veltliner leap out and shake you to the core. Full-bodied and full of weighty and balanced layers of papayas, mangoes, nectarines, chives, white tea and oranges. Fantastic concentration, giving so much pleasure already, but it will keep blossoming if you give it time. From vines planted in 1907. Sustainable. Drink or hold."
-James Suckling 98 Points
2020 VINTAGE: The harvest 2020 in Vaudevey started on September 1st. The harvest yields were impacted by drought, particularly for the certain plots that were well exposed to the sun. The ripening of the grapes was slow, which helped aromas to concentrate and acidity to be kept.
GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Chardonnay
VINEYARD: Domaine Laroche is one of only three proprietors in Premier Cru Les Vaudevey, owning 24.61 acres of the 102.13 acres premier cru vineyard. Planted on steep slopes of 30-50% at 640 to 771 feet with an eastern to southeastern exposure, the vines enjoy morning to early afternoon sun. The coolest valley of the Domaine Laroche vineyard—always the last one to be harvested.
VINE DENSITY: 5,880 vines per hectare (2,380 vines per acre); massal selection from Laroche old vines for the new plantings VITICULTURE: One man, one plot: There are more than 30 people who are dedicated to caring for the 90-plus hectares (222.39 acres) of Domaine Laroche vineyards, with each person responsible for only one plot. This tailor-made approach allows them to manage the vineyards with precision, speed and accuracy.
PRESSING: The grapes are harvested and sorted by hand. Whole bunches are pressed in a pneumatic press, and then the must settles for 12 hours at 10° C to 12°C (50° F to 54° F) in large vats.
FERMENTATION: The must ferments for 3 weeks, 74% in stainless steel vats and 26% in French oak barrels.
MATURATION: Nine months in 72% stainless steel tank, the rest in barrels. only 5% new oak in total. FILTRATION: Minimal filtration is used to preserve and maximize the natural character of the wine. ALCOHOL: 12% TASTING NOTES: Bright gold in color. Hints of minerality layered with citrus notes of lemon peel. Nervy, racy and lively. You can enjoy it by the glass, with oysters, seafood and smoked salmon. Also, pairs well with Asian food and light cheese.