Romain-Bertrand de Lur-Saluces, Françoise-Joséphine's grandson, took his role as manager of Yquem very much to heart, rather than simply taking possession of the family estate, which had become mythical by this time. In 1855, in posthumous recognition of the tremendous accomplishments of "the lady of Yquem", the estate was designated the one and only premier cru supérieur in the famous classification made at the request of Emperor Napoléon III.
Yquem went through a long period of prosperity in the latter half of the 19th century. People all over Europe went to great lengths to search out the wine. Great Duke Constantine, brother of the Tsar of Russia, made the headlines by paying 20,000 gold francs for a barrel of Château d’Yquem – an unheard of price at the time. Japan, which opened up to foreign trade during the Meiji dynasty, also discovered the pleasures of Yquem. After Romain-Bertrand's death, his son, Marquis Amédée de Lur-Saluces, took over, followed by his younger brother, Eugène. This phase of Yquem's history ended with two dramatic events: the phylloxéra crisis and the First World War. In 1914, Yquem played a role in the war. The château was transformed into a military hospital while Marquis Bertrand de Lur-Saluces, son of Eugène, became an officer in the trenches, in keeping with the family tradition. At the end of the war, at age 30, he took over managing the estate and continued in this capacity for a momentous half-century. Bertrand was a man of character and a staunch guardian of the Yquem philosophy. He was opposed to chaptalisation and courageously defended the family estates, even during the dire recession of the 1930s. President of the Union des Crus Classés de la Gironde for forty years, he was instrumental in determining many legal aspects of the Sauternes appellation. He was also one of the leading proponents of château bottling to guarantee authenticity. An enlisted officer in the Second World War, Bertrand de Lur-Saluces was captured and held prisoner for two years. However, he was fortunate enough to return to his beloved estate as soon as he was freed. He did much to develop Château d'Yquem, particularly as regards its international impact, until his death in 1968.
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100% single block Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 20 months in 100% new French oak.
Place
This beautiful block sits on the lower section of the Red Mountain side of the vineyard. Featuring a perfect southwest aspect, it gets the maximum sun exposure for depth and concentration. The land itself is wind-blown loess covering an alluvial floodplain, dotted with indigenous sage.
Winemaker's Notes
Explosively and exotically nuanced aromas of crème de cassis, Himalayan blackberry, black roses, dried violets, pencil shavings, crushed volcanic rock, and liquefied river minerals. While extremely dense and concentrated, this wine has a lot of grace and poise on the palate. The finish of inky deep black fruits, richly refined oak tones, and exotic floral notes, is utterly bewitching. Leave it for 5-7 years if you can or decant well before drinking. This is a 30-year wine in the making.
Review:
Lastly, and a wine that stopped me in my tracks, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Block 47 might be the wine of the vintage. Revealing a dense purple hue as well as incredible aromatics of caramelized red and blue fruits, classy oak, lead pencil shavings, and a Latour-like sense of minerality, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, building tannins, a stacked mid-palate, and a great, great finish. I love its balance and purity, but I suspect it’s going to demand bottle age.
-Jeb Dunnuck 97-99 Points