The Caveau du Mont July Estate
We visited the winery in January 2007 for the first time and met Jean-Louis Ronger who organized a very nice reception for us. We enjoyed tasting his wines together with the local "tarte au sucre" (sugar pie). The owner Jean Louis Ronger has been producing wine from Bugey for thirteen years. He represents the first generation of his family to make wine. The Caveau is located in the tiny village of Bohas, a 40 minute drive from the city of Bourg-en-Bresse, famous for its "Bresse" chicken.
The Caveau du Mont July Vineyard
The region is located on the lower slopes of the Jura mountains made of calcareous or siliceous clay. Because of the topography, the vineyard is divided into 10 small parcels where 80 wine producers make Bugey wines. Production includes traditional red, rose, white, sparkling wines or marc brandy. The Bugey Cerdon area is very small, covering only 150 hectares of vines. Wines from Bugey Cerdon are not A.O.C. wines but V.D.Q.S. (Vin Delimite de Qualite Superieure).
Caveau du Mont July's vineyard measures 4 hectares (9.8 acres) but only 1.8 hectare is under vines. The yield is 72-75 hectoliters/hectare.
Beliere Bugey-Cerdon is made from 95% Gamay, 5% Poulsard (a local grape from Jura).
Spontaneous fermentation. An altogether preferable scenario to spontaneous combustion, and A LOT more fun to drink. This pink, semi-dry bubbly was made by spontaneous fermentation, otherwise known as methode ancestrale. Grapes are picked by hand (not just any grapes, these are the local Poulsard and Gamay grown on mountainous slopes in the shadow of the Alps), and fermented in chilled vats just reaching 5 or 6 degrees alcohol. The young and light wine is then bottled, along with its active yeast and considerable unfermented sugars. Under pressure of the cork, the wine continues to ferment, gaining a few degrees of alcohol but retaining a nice amount of sweetness. The bubbles, of course, are another result of fermentation under pressure. This one is so delicious and fun to drink, with a distinctly, well, grapy aroma and a fruitiness that calls out for celebration and jubilation.
This is also wonderful served with chocolate cake!
8% ABV.
Produced from the "Ancestral method" (also used to produce Clairette de Die): Low temperature fermentation starting in the tank, light filtration that leaves active yeast in the wine, bottling of the wine with fermentation continuing in the bottle ("spontaneous fermentation in the bottle"), retaining some sugar (40 gr/liter at the end). Made from 95% Gamay, 5% Poulsard (a local grape from Jura).
Review:
"Amber color. Aromas and flavors of cranberry juice, rose petal, cherry and kiwi, and red apple with a round, bright, effervescent, fruity medium-to-full body and a delightful, medium-long finish that shows nuances of cherry, cranberry, beeswax, and rose water. Concentrated fruit flavors, creamy bubbles, and well balanced acidity will make this a splendid pairing with charcuterie." - Beverage Testing -Institute (November 2022), 92 pts - Gold Medal
Roland Champion Champagne Non Vintage Brut Rose Carat (magnum) is made from 33% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Meunier and 33% Pinot Noir
The Champagne rose shows an orange salmon color coming from the red wine base. The pinot meunier brings red fruit aromas of strawberry and raspberry with hints of spices. The palate is juicy and harmonious with good depth and minerality. A delicate balance between Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir.
It is a blend of 93% White juice (made from 33% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Meunier and 33% Pinot Noir) and 7% Pinot Noir red wine. The grapes used to produce the Coteaux Champenois red wine are coming from their vineyards near the Village of Verneuil.
Review:
"Eye of the partridge color. With a bouquet that evokes leesy hints of red cherry and berry with a touch of stone fruit, this is a finely sculpted wine, beautifully balanced with rich flavors of cherry, shortbread,and a hint of honeyed apricot. A rosé Champagne that’s complex and dry with good palate depth and length. A blend of 20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and 40% Pinot Meunier; 7-85% of the juice is red wine (Pinot Noir) from 2013 vintage of Coteaux Champenois Rouge from the village of Verneuil. 3+ years on the lees." - I-WineReview (Champagne: Diversity and Change, January 2020), 92 pts
"A delicate, subtle Champagne, delivering aromatic notes of mulling spices and yeast that accent the flavors of kirsch, bread dough, candied lemon zest and rose petal. This is finely tuned, with lively acidity and a minerally finish. 330 cases made. –AN"
- Wine Spectator , 91 pts
"Bright orange. Aromas of blood orange, dried rose, allspice and minerals, with a subtle note of anise. Juicy and precise, with very good depth to its spicy red berry and citrus pith flavors. Finishes smooth and long, with excellent clarity and lingering spiciness."
- Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar , 91 pts
"Champion is a small grower in Chouilly, in the Cotes des Blancs, an area known for fantastic chardonnay. This rosé — of which he makes only about 330 cases — includes 10 percent red wines (pinot noir, pinot meunier) to give it a pale, salmonlike color and a beguiling palate of cranberries, strawberries and currants. Wow. And yum."
- Washington Post, ***
a Plume du Peintre - "feather of the painter" - wines (Lirac, Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Tavel) are only made in select years representing outstanding quality.
Deep ruby red, opaque. Aromas of red fruits, mocha, touches of leather, black truffles and coffee. Fat, very concentrated and full flavored, with an infinitely long liquoriced and fruity finish.
Pairs well with red meats, sauce dishes, game animals (woodcock, wild boar) and semi mature cheeses.
Review:
"Lastly, and a tiny production cuvée based on 100% Grenache brought up in new barrels, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Plume Du Peintre reveals a saturated, almost inky purple color as well as a mammoth-sized bouquet of black currants, bloody meats, lead pencil, tobacco, chocolate, and crushed stone, it nevertheless has notable purity, a full-bodied, layered, seamless texture, no hard edges, and a thrilling finish that offers more and more minerality. with time in the glass. You don't see wines like this often today, but this is a singular, heavenly Grenache that's going to need 4-5 years of bottle age and live for 30-40 years if stored correctly given its concentration, structure, and purity. Hats off to the team at Domaine de la Mordorée for continuing to push the envelope and making incredibly singular wines!”
- Jeb Dunnuck (November 2021), 98+ pts