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Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.
Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Klaus sits adjacent to Achleiten and is one of the Wachau’s most famous vineyards for Riesling. The vineyard is incredibly steep with a gradient of 77% at its steepest point. The southeast-facing terraced vineyard of dark migmatite-amphibolite and paragneiss produces a tightly wound and powerful wine. The parcel belonging to Toni Bodenstein was planted in 1952.
Tasting Notes:
Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. “Klaus is not a charming Riesling,” says Toni Bodenstein with a wink. Klaus is Prager’s most assertive and robust Riesling.
Food Pairing
Riesling’s high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might.
Review:
Superbly cool, restrained and refined, this austere, beautiful dry riesling is a slow-burn masterpiece that's only just beginning to reveal its complex white-peach, white-tea, wild-herb and dark-berry character. Super-long and mineral finish. Drink or hold.
-James Suckling 97 Points
The Peumo Vineyard is located 170 m above sea level and extended along the Cachapoal River, on terraces of hills of the Coastal Mountains. The vines come from pre-phylloxera cuttings and are trellised to vertical shoot position and cordon pruned. The soils are deep with an upper layer of clay that retains moisture, which controls the vines’ vigor and growth and allows them to remain active through late May, when the Carmenere is picked.
Deep, dark red with hints of violet. Elegant and mineral on the nose, with notes of blackberry and a touch of blackcurrant. It fills the palate with underlying mature tannins. Deep, concentrated, with a long aftertaste and distinctive hints of the Peumo terroir. This 2018 vintage is characterized by its elegance and freshness; it is a wine with a lot of Carmenere character. Pairs best with elegant but simply prepared dishes such as juicy, rare roast beef, veal, pork tenderloin with roasted beets and cranberries, duck (con t or magret). Also delightful with squash-stuffed pasta with morel mushrooms or aged goat cheese with figs.
Review:
The 2018 Carménère Carmín de Peumo is made with grapes from 35-year-old vines and painstakingly overseen by Marcio Ramírez, who adds dabs of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon before aging the wine for 15 months in French oak to achieve a new level of complexity. Deep purple in color. The nose offers black tea and cedar aromas combined with blueberry, black currant and white pepper. With juicy, fine-grained tannins, in the mouth it is fleshy and full-flavored, conveying a surprisingly light feel. Sets a high benchmark for Chilean Carménère/.
-Vinous 94 Points
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